Kathmandu

Here is a summary of the “Kathmandu” chapter and answers to your questions, drawing on the provided sources:

Summary of “Kathmandu” 🗺️

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The chapter “Kathmandu” is an excerpt from Vikram Seth’s travelogue, Heaven Lake, where he recounts his experiences and observations during his journey from China to Tibet and Nepal.

Upon arriving in Kathmandu, the author secures a reasonably priced room in the city centre and takes a much-needed rest. The following morning, accompanied by Mr. Shah’s son and nephew, he embarks on a visit to two significant temples in Kathmandu: the Pashupatinath Temple and the Baudhnath Stupa.

At Pashupatinath, the atmosphere is one of “febrile confusion,” characterised by a bustling mix of priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, cows, monkeys, pigeons, and dogs roaming the grounds. A sign explicitly states “Entrance for the Hindus only”. The author observes people jostling for the priest’s attention and even a fight breaking out between monkeys, one of which jumps onto a shivalinga and runs towards the holy Bagmati river. On the river’s banks, a corpse is being cremated, while washerwomen and children are engaged in their daily activities. A small shrine partially visible from the river bank holds a local belief: when it fully emerges, a goddess will escape, signifying the end of the evil Kaliyug.

In stark contrast, the Baudhnath Stupa, a Buddhist shrine, offers a “sense of stillness”. Its large white dome is encircled by a road lined with small shops, many run by Tibetan immigrants, selling items like felt bags, Tibetan prints, and silver jewellery. This area is described as a “haven of quietness” amidst the otherwise busy streets.

The author describes Kathmandu itself as “vivid, mercenary, religious”. Its narrow, bustling streets are dotted with small shrines adorned with flowers, and filled with various vendors selling fruit, flutes, postcards, Western cosmetics, film rolls, chocolate, copper utensils, and Nepalese antiques. The city is also a cacophony of sounds, from blaring film songs and car horns to ringing bicycle bells, lowing stray cows, and shouting vendors. The author indulges in local treats, buying marzipan, roasted corn-on-the-cob, love story comics, and a Reader’s Digest, washing them down with Coca-Cola and an orange drink.

Feeling exhausted and homesick, the author decides against an extended overland journey back to India (which would involve bus and train to Patna, then sailing up the Ganges and Yamuna to Delhi via Benaras and Agra). Instead, he opts for a direct flight, purchasing a ticket from a Nepal Airlines office for the following day.

Answers to Your Questions 💬

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Here are the answers to the questions based on the provided sources:

I. Questions requiring a few words or short phrases:

1. Name the two temples the author visited in Kathmandu. The author visited the Pashupatinath Temple and the Baudhnath stupa. 🙏🕌
2. The writer says, “All this I wash down with Coca Cola.” What does ‘all this’ refer to? ‘All this’ refers to the marzipan, a corn-on-the-cob roasted in a charcoal brazier on the pavement (rubbed with salt, chilli powder and lemon), a couple of love story comics, and a Reader’s Digest that the author bought. 😋📚
3. What does Vikram Seth compare to the quills of a porcupine? The provided excerpts do not explicitly state what Vikram Seth compares to the quills of a porcupine. This specific comparison is not found in the source material. 🤷‍♀️
4. Name five kinds of flutes. The provided excerpts mention “flute sellers” and “flutes” in general, but do not name five specific kinds of flutes. 🎶🤔

II. Questions requiring a short paragraph (about 30-40 words):

1. What difference does the author note between the flute seller and the other hawkers? The author notes a distinct difference in their approach. While other hawkers loudly shout out their wares, the flute seller plays his flutes slowly and thoughtfully, at times even pausing to practice, seemingly unconcerned about drawing customers. This suggests a more meditative and less overtly commercial approach compared to the other vendors. 🧘‍♂️🎵
2. What is the belief at Pashupatinath about the end of Kaliyug? At Pashupatinath, there is a belief that a small shrine, which currently half protrudes from a stone platform on the holy Bagmati river bank, signals the end of the evil period of Kaliyug. When this shrine fully emerges, the goddess inside it will escape, and the Kaliyug will conclude on earth. 🕰️✨
3. The author has drawn powerful images and pictures. Pick out three examples each of:
   • (i) the atmosphere of ‘febrile confusion’ outside the temple of Pashupatinath (for example: some people trying to get the priest’s attention are elbowed aside…) Examples include priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, cows, monkeys, pigeons, and dogs roaming through the grounds; people elbowing aside others to get the priest’s attention; and a fight breaking out between two monkeys, with one chasing the other onto a shivalinga. It truly paints a picture of chaos! 🐒🐮🐾
   • (ii) the things he sees The author sees small shrines to flower-adorned deities along the streets, a variety of sellers (fruit, flute, postcards), and shops stocked with Western cosmetics, film rolls, chocolate, copper utensils, and Nepalese antiques. He also notes the immense white dome of the Baudhnath stupa and the shops owned by Tibetan immigrants selling felt bags, Tibetan prints, and silver jewellery. 🛍️🌸✨
   • (iii) the sounds he hears The sounds he hears include film songs blaring out from radios, the continuous sound of car horns, the ringing of bicycle bells, the questioning lowing of stray cows at motorcycles, and the shouting of vendors calling out their wares. It’s a symphony of city life! 📢🚗🔔

III. Questions requiring two or three paragraphs (100–150 words):

1. Compare and contrast the atmosphere in and around the Baudhnath shrine with the Pashupatinath temple. The Pashupatinath Temple is characterised by an atmosphere of “febrile confusion”. It is a bustling place where a diverse mix of people, including priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, along with animals like cows, monkeys, pigeons, and dogs, freely roam the grounds. The scene is highly active, with worshippers jostling for attention, and even instances of fighting monkeys. A prominent sign restricts entry to “Hindus only,” indicating a specific religious exclusivity. The sounds of cremation ceremonies and daily activities like washing and bathing in the holy Bagmati river further contribute to this energetic and somewhat chaotic environment.

   In stark contrast, the Baudhnath Stupa, a Buddhist shrine, exudes a “sense of stillness”. Despite being encircled by a road and having small shops, it is described as a “haven of quietness” and lacks the crowds found at Pashupatinath. Many of the shops around Baudhnath are owned by Tibetan immigrants, selling distinct items like felt bags, Tibetan prints, and silver jewellery. This shrine offers a peaceful and serene experience, serving as a tranquil retreat from the otherwise busy streets of Kathmandu, unlike the vibrant and intense religious activity observed at Pashupatinath. 🕉️🙏🕊️

2. How does the author describe Kathmandu’s busiest streets? The author vividly describes Kathmandu’s busiest streets as “vivid, mercenary, religious”. These streets are a sensory overload, filled with a rich tapestry of sights and sounds. Visually, they are adorned with small shrines and flower-adorned deities, reflecting the city’s deep religious undertones. The commercial aspect is evident with an array of fruit sellers, flute sellers, and hawkers of postcards. Shops cater to diverse needs, selling everything from Western cosmetics and film rolls to chocolate, copper utensils, and Nepalese antiques.

   Auditorily, the streets are a constant buzz of activity. Film songs blare from radios, while car horns sound and bicycle bells ring continuously. The unique sound of stray cows lowing questioningly at motorcycles adds a local flavour, alongside the constant shouting of vendors advertising their wares. Amidst this vibrant chaos, the author finds himself indulging in various local treats, highlighting the irresistible allure and bustling nature of these streets. bustling and vibrant, offering a full immersion into the city’s character. bustling and vibrant, offering a full immersion into the city’s character. bustling and vibrant, offering a full immersion into the city’s character. 🏙️🔊👃

3. “To hear any flute is to be drawn into the commonality of all mankind.” Why does the author say this? The provided source material does not offer an explanation or reasoning behind the author’s statement, “To hear any flute is to be drawn into the commonality of all mankind”. While the chapter describes the presence of a flute seller and mentions flutes, it does not elaborate on the author’s philosophical or emotional connection to flutes that would lead to this specific reflection. 🎶🌍🤔